| When you stay in Paris for a short while only, eating | | | | atmosphere is congenial, vibrant and lively. No elevator |
| out at a decent, reasonably priced restaurant may | | | | music to bother you, but your neighbors' voices may |
| become a silly game of trial and error. In this new | | | | cover yours. Very Parisian, no doubt, but I saw several |
| series of articles, I will recommend several places no | | | | American folks having lunch there. |
| traveler will ever regret having tried out! | | | | The feat |
| Facing the eating-out issue | | | | Our party of six was soon tended by Zoe the |
| When it comes eating out in Paris, travelers unfamiliar | | | | waitress, a sight for sore eyes. This smiling brunette is |
| with the city may have a hard time finding the right | | | | married to the restaurant manager, a friendly fellow |
| place to eat out. Consider it this way: you are to live, | | | | who tends the bar and the cash register. Zoe has a |
| breathe and eat for a short while in a city which | | | | nice word for everyone, can explain the menu in |
| counts over 1,500 restaurants, in a country | | | | details, recommends what's right for you, and moves |
| internationally known for its exquisite food. Where do | | | | about diligently. |
| you start from? And what guarantee do you have to | | | | The menu at 'Chez Georges' is as varied as |
| hit the right spots for lunch and dinner? | | | | appetizing. Everything on it spells French tradition. We |
| A large number of my American friends select to | | | | decided to order a large selection of appetizers to |
| follow their favorite travel guide's recommendations. | | | | share, including rillettes (a sort of pate made with pork, |
| Good thinking. But there's a downside to it: travelers | | | | duck or goose), pink radish, herrings, museau (beef |
| tend use the same travel guides. And too many | | | | head pate), potato salad, and other delicacies. |
| tourists kill authenticity. | | | | The goods came in generous portions, and a couple of |
| The so-called 'French cuisine' | | | | bottles of white Sancerre helped us gulp all this down. |
| Being born and having lived in France for 30 some | | | | (Sancerre is a light red or white wine. It is made from |
| years before I found my true home in America, I have | | | | black pinot or white sauvignon, and is grown in the |
| an in-bred tendency to be extremely picky when it | | | | Touraine region.) We were served two different types |
| comes to food. When I travel back to Paris, I especially | | | | of fresh bread, including a delicious Poilane bread |
| dislike being served so-so cuisine at over-inflated | | | | We then attacked the entrees: duck filet with potatoes |
| prices. | | | | for me, please, served pink. (In my book, duck cooked |
| By the same token I find it very hard to accept that | | | | to 'done' is unpalatable.) Soon came the plates, full up. |
| any of my American friends touring Paris be served | | | | My duck filet was perfectly cooked, and thick and |
| run-of-the-mill food posing as 'French cuisine'. Hence | | | | tender as it should be. A wonderful abundance of |
| this new series of articles. | | | | gorgeous food! We accompanied the main fares with |
| In the course of several recent trips to the French | | | | a bottle of red Chinon, a wine grown in my hometown. |
| capital, I was introduced by local friends to a few | | | | Things to get damned for! |
| restaurants I found to be absolutely noteworthy. My | | | | All is well that ends well |
| first stop will be 'Chez Georges'. | | | | The dessert was as succulent as the rest of this |
| The set | | | | hearty meal. I had a Tarte Tatin, an caramelized apple |
| 'Chez Georges' stands out tall amongst my recent | | | | pie baked 'upside-down'. Apple slices are first baked |
| discoveries. | | | | on sugar, then covered with dough, and put in the oven |
| I had received an invitation for lunch from Philippe H., an | | | | again for a short while. When baked, the pie is turned |
| attorney-at-law who specializes in brokering deals in | | | | over so that the dough now supports the apples. The |
| record time. Philippe has been lunching at 'Chez | | | | result is a very tender pie, with a sweet but not |
| Georges' for the last 20 years or so, he is a fixture of | | | | overpowering taste of caramel. It is served with vanilla |
| the place. He even has his own table there. A very | | | | ice. |
| practical state of affairs, mind you, as 'Chez Georges' | | | | We all finished the meal on a good espresso. The |
| always operates at full capacity, and one needs to | | | | check was very reasonable: it came to about 60 USD |
| book at least 48 hours in advance to get a table. | | | | per person, for an unforgettable meal that included a |
| The decor is typical French 1920-30, with a mosaic | | | | ton of appetizers, six main fares, seven servings of |
| floor, large mirrors on the walls, dark brown wood | | | | dessert, 3 bottles of wine, and espressos for |
| panels, and sandish paint. The restaurant is divided in | | | | everyone. Expect to pay USD 30 on a lighter fare and |
| two rooms, both very narrow. The first room features | | | | less wine. |
| a bar and a row of small square tables. Being close to | | | | Though very hearty, my meal was easy to digest. I |
| the door and window panes, it is well lit. The room in | | | | didn't feel bloated afterwards, just slightly tipsy thanks |
| the back is larger, with two rows of tables. It's also | | | | to multiple servings of light wine. The products used |
| darker, without any windows. The (small) kitchen is | | | | were of very good quality, the bread freshly baked. |
| situated at the back of this room, and the restrooms | | | | The service we received was diligent and friendly. |
| another step behind. | | | | Definitely a place I recommend you, my traveling |
| The place is obviously packed, and very busy. It smells | | | | friends! |
| good food, and though guests are allowed to smoke I | | | | Where? |
| didn't find cigarette smoke to be an issue. The whole | | | | |